DF + stuff

Friday night was an experiencia! My new Mexican gal pals took me to an antro: an antro will play music including hip hop, electronic, rap, etc. whereas a discoteca is known to only play electronica. Who knew? The security is top notch, can’t bring gum or allergy medicine and you get a nice patdown on your way in. You only have to be 18 to drink/club in MX, sooooo I felt like an oldie at this place, but still had a blast dancing and talking to people, etc. There were lots of chants and cheers a bailar, “ESTO ES, MOOOOOLLEEEYYY,” “ESTO ESSSS.” Lots of laughs… and tequila.  

Maria y yo a Presley 

Maria y yo a Presley 

las chicas al antro, felt like a big sister 

las chicas al antro, felt like a big sister 

Alllllllll the girls take their picture here

Alllllllll the girls take their picture here

Also scoped out the Museum of Modern Art with a friend from CDMX that I met in LA. We saw some Frida and other Mexican greats, along with a Balenciaga exhibit that was interesting… although I wish I was more enthralled with fashion… Rafael and Fran took me to a great tacos de pastor spot, and then for some ice cream at a 50’s style diner called Roxy’s. It’s a fun treat to be taken around by locals. The pressure is lifted and you can just go with the flow! 

back at my fav Condesa spot, Lardo, where they kindly gifted me what I ate the last time ;)

back at my fav Condesa spot, Lardo, where they kindly gifted me what I ate the last time ;)

never tire de las frutas, and fruit loops, too! 

never tire de las frutas, and fruit loops, too! 

al Museo de Arte Moderno 

al Museo de Arte Moderno 

chiquillos lindos 

chiquillos lindos 

Frida y Frida, las famosas

Frida y Frida, las famosas

an awesome foto of helado de cafe at Roxy's + Francisco

an awesome foto of helado de cafe at Roxy's + Francisco

The next day I caught up with my friends from the hostel and we walked through Condesa, ate elote - YUM - (actually first had this at the Hispanic Festival in Grand Rapids if you could believe it). It's fresh corn on the cob drenched in mayonnaise, queso fresco, and chili pepper + lots of lime! Sofia wanted us to try the chapulines (crickets) but we slowly crept past that booth as no one was dying to try them. We waived to some pre-teens in a Hummer limo standing out of the roof window, probably on their way to a Quinceñeara or something-- they were basically babies in suits that are way too young to drink :) 

My hostel homies--- Sofîa from México, Albert from Barcelona, and Ariel from Argentina (3 awesome personalities, and 3 diverse accents). I urged them to converse in Spanish and I’d try and keep up. It’s really the only way to learn— to immerse and put all of your freaking cranial muscle and energy into listening, dissecting, reading body language, and interpreting in general. It’s exhausting, and can be a bit isolating being the only non-fluent hispanohablante. But when something clicks, or you hear a word you learned 8 years ago, it feels awesome! And it does get easier. 

Hostel life

Hostel life

The whole experience of traveling in a foreign country alone (or not alone) is humbling, muy humillante. I’m vulnerable to the country's extremities and complete personality, which many times is unpredictable. Some people are easy to understand, while others have an unrecognizable accent and I’d be better off speaking Italian. Some people adore and flatter me, whie others look me up and down wondering what the hell I'm doing in their country, possibly thinking, "Is she a Donald trump supporter?" It’s also much more difficult to understand a group of people talking, than having a one-on-one conversation with someone. I’m grateful for all the people I’ve encountered that oblige me with patience, who repeat their comments when I ask them to, and will tango in Spanglish conmigo. A limited vocabulary + functional mode of translation forces you to filter your thoughts and remarks presented aloud. Fewer words, more simple sentences, and say it with confidence or you’ll lose their interest :) It’s amazing how many more people and stories and cultures you can understand and be show, solely by way of another language. It’s also LOCA! the amount one can understand from body language and expressions. I’m thankful for my acting class for aiding me in that respect. 

The four of us ended up back at the hostel after consuming mezcal drinks at a charming terrace bar in Condesa, Moxie, where we watched the clouds and thunderstorm roll in. Mischa, who works at the hostel, proceeded to shove tequila, rum, and cerveza in our faces for hours until we headed up to the 4th floor discoteca, which I was annoyed with two nights prior. Twas a great night that made checking out of the hostel and lugging all my crapola into a new apartment the next morning a real HAUL. But three cheers for agua de coco ~ I hope they do not come out with a study saying how bad it is for you because I’ve become addicted to it. Cada dîa. We drank from a fresh coco a few days later in Puerto Escondido -  from the tree to my mouth after it was hacked open by the Aussie with a machete! Venga! 

to eat crickets or not to eat crickets...

to eat crickets or not to eat crickets...

corn n frenz! Sofia, Albert, y Ariel

corn n frenz! Sofia, Albert, y Ariel

a una barra se llama Moxie, finally I got to teach them an English word! ! ! 

a una barra se llama Moxie, finally I got to teach them an English word! ! ! 

white tee club

white tee club

midnight snack! but cuidado...Montezuma's revenge se viva

midnight snack! but cuidado...Montezuma's revenge se viva

Hostal mates at the rooftop fiesta

Hostal mates at the rooftop fiesta

Albert, Sofia and I walked to the top of the Castillo de Chapultepec (favorite word so far) that’s now a history museum. We wandered around and discussed how all the history classes we took were slowly seeping into the forefront of our brains after a few years of suppressing it, like all good students. We read lots sobre los Aztecas - who thought the Spanish Cortés arrived at their shores as a god incarnate, only to be conquered by their navy thereafter. I’m thankful for the latinoamerica history classes I took in college - it made all the exhibits more fascinating and realized. We listened to a guide dissect an enormous mural for a while...until my brain fully melted and we moved on. It’s insane what Mexico has been through, and how vast and diverse of a country it is. Sofia was joking with Albert and I, about our representation of her country's main colonizers and enemies - Spain and the north Americans….but how cool that we’re all friends a few hundred, bloody years later! 

vista de la ciudad from the Castillo Chapultepec, the bosque is below

vista de la ciudad from the Castillo Chapultepec, the bosque is below

no idea

no idea

she cute 

she cute 

the Spanish brought Cristo a America to crucify los indios, AY CARUMBA

the Spanish brought Cristo a America to crucify los indios, AY CARUMBA

Later that night mis amigos all left in the drizzling rain, and I went back to my eerie apartment feeling a little lonely, and very dramatic. Oh! the ups and downs. The next day I sat in a café and explored the new neighborhood - Roma norte. Helped myself to plenty of fresh mango, a cappuccino and hungrily nabbed some Sabritas (Lays potato chips) from the street vendor. Guilty pleasure for shore. 

Plants 4 Sale  - PLANTS PLANTS PLANTS everywhere

Plants 4 Sale  - PLANTS PLANTS PLANTS everywhere

 reading!

 reading!

plaza de Rio de Janeiro in Roma Norte

plaza de Rio de Janeiro in Roma Norte

Buno 42, in Roma Norte 

Buno 42, in Roma Norte 

Bathroom Series --- My grandma and I would always make our final judgments of a place dependent on their bathroom - lots of good ones here.

Bathroom Series --- My grandma and I would always make our final judgments of a place dependent on their bathroom - lots of good ones here.

getting the local sabor y recomendaciones

getting the local sabor y recomendaciones

I went for a run that night around the Parqué México (mase in hand, mamá!)…around, and around again, not wanting to go back to the apartment! It had some dark spirit vibes…and I’ve never felt a heaviness como eso, and it’s hard to explain. I was telling a friend sobre mis sentamientos and she urged me to get outta there! Who cares about money! I quickly found a bus departure time, packed up, slept 2 hours, and called an uber at 5 am. I was definitely mistaken about the location of the bus terminal, and was sure über Arturo was taking me countryside… to SELL me, Taken style… I contemplated how all the people that worried about my safety were right, I should’ve never come alone to México, I was being driven to my worst nightmare; but, alas! he led me to the right spot, and if not for Arturo I would’ve missed the bus :) 

goodbye lil creepy room 

goodbye lil creepy room 

Oaxaca tales to be continued… nos vemos!

a México I go

Getting a leeeeetle perturbed because this is my third draft. As I sat at the rainy terrace of my hostel last night, the internet went shoddy and so I ordered another Negra Modelo and started again. After the second and third time, I gave up and decided to drink my cerveza and people watch. The terrazza started filling up and a couple of jovenes sat next to me, and we immediately started chatting ~ Maria y Michelle. They’re both studying fashion design. They bought me a Mescal that arrived in a shot glass. I raised my glass to cheers, and down that bad boy PERO Maria quickly informed me that we sip on it…it’s not ashot, and es muy fuerte :) They serve orange slices with chili pepper and salt, so you munch on it all together. Pretty delicious. My new gal pals are taking me “on a proper night out” tonight…!  

I arrived half dead at the hostel, and they were very gracious with my tired español. One thing I’ve appreciated so far is that even though I’m obviously una gringa, everyone approaches me in Spanish until they can tell I’m really struggling, and offer to speak in English, if they know it. 

We stopped over in San Salvador and immediately I could feel a familial aspect of Latino culture that’s quite endearing. Everyone in the airport seemed to know each other, and maybe they did; between the hand shakes, arm slaps, and smiley greetings of Hola! Como estan? Here, too, in Mexico City, I’ve noticed how close y amable/kind people are, and seem a bit more relaxed than what I’m used to in LA. No surprise there. Two people are more likely to sit next to each other rather than across. I sat next to a sweet Colombian woman also traveling alone. We chatted a bit, and it was her first time flying. Between the melatonin induced coma and lack of sleep, I tried to comfort her in my piece meal Spanish, but wasn’t as empathetic as I had desired. We survived. 

I went for a long stroll around my neighborhood La Condesa— an artsy, vibrant neighborhood with fun restaurants, bars, and close to a huge park, the art museum, castle, etc. etc. I frequently find myself in the same place more than once. I bought the most ripe mango! Sliced for me right then and there. There were a million options for this travel induced hunger I developed, and found the blocks and blocks of vendors selling dulces, spices, chiles, magazines, dirty magz, y MUCHOS TACOS. I was looking for one with the freshest ingredients, and ended back at the first one I saw, wth many people eating there (always a good sign). I ordered tacos de bistec y queso, and there were SALSAS on SALSAS for this salsa queen. Deliciosos!

Los colores! I could take a photo of every street.

Los colores! I could take a photo of every street.

YUM. I wish I liked it with the chili y sal, Quinn! 

YUM. I wish I liked it with the chili y sal, Quinn! 

bistec y queso con salsa de aguacate y limón

bistec y queso con salsa de aguacate y limón

For dinner I tried a new restaurant nearby, Lardo, which I had noticed earlier in the day. It lured me in with its foliage and green plants, open air windows, and friendly service. I sat at the bar overlooking the plancha grill, and chatted with the chefs who interpreted many things on the menu I was unfamiliar with. I sipped on some chenin blanc + later tempranillo, and started with queso pecorino. They brought out the best flat bread with herbs and OLIVE oil that tasted like it dripped from the olive branch directly onto my plate. (I had another ensalada yesterday with olive oil, and it really is top notch here! Yes, you can taste the difference). Next, a salad with asparagus, queso ranchero, zucchini, grilled baby bok choy, legumes, and a lemon vin. To top it off, the friendly couple on my left recommendedthe tablita de res (steak) con salt and a side of arugula salad with queso and juicy marinated tomatoes. I tried to leave some bread on the plate, but I just could not. It’s fun to see the common food trends all over, not just in LA.

It started down pouring and I slugged my way to a Cuban bar, stepping in large puddles with my Birkenstocks saying “WHO CARES!” to myself. The bar was pretty empty, but had a great live band. I told them I’d come back tomorrow, (because it’s not fun by yourself if there’s no one to stare at) but they lured me in with a free mojito. Twist my arm! I said, and sat down. They brought an American sized mojito the size of my head, por las chicas más bonitas, was his response to my astonishment.

This is a food photo taken by someone who is embarrassed by taking photos of food at restaurants.

This is a food photo taken by someone who is embarrassed by taking photos of food at restaurants.

pretty bathrooms! But don't flush your toilet paper :/ 

pretty bathrooms! But don't flush your toilet paper :/ 

Can you spy the adorable coat rack in the background? They put them next to dining tables for suits 'n jackets. 

Can you spy the adorable coat rack in the background? They put them next to dining tables for suits 'n jackets. 

Yesterday, I took a long walk to the neighborhood of Polanco, to hang out at the Loncheria Eno. I bought a fresh squeezed OJ, passed the zoo and the art museum, walked over a freeway that was jam packed. I read there for a while, and observed… I’m definitely feeling underdressed here. So many people look like they’re on their lunch break from the office life, just ordering a taco in their cute button up shirts. It reminds me of Spain a bit, along with their parks. You can see the Spanish influence sprinkled over the city, with street names, parks, and the mention of being mestizo - half Spanish/native Mexican. It’s interesting having studied their history a bit, and seeing it lived in the present day. I got late night food after my friends übered home, and chatted with the owner and his friends there. The owner was telling me of his tribe, the Yaqis, and how he was native. Another responded that he was un mestizo, not as proud. Maybe I misinterpreted, but it seems no one wants to claim the Spanish conquest. 

OJ dreams come true

OJ dreams come true

my favorite color

my favorite color

It’s pleasantly humid here, and feels super tropical. It bounces between partly sunny and cloudy, and usually rains every day at some point. I walked through a gimongous forest (Chapultepec, which means grasshopper (which I learned from playing Spanish catchphrase with my über driver)) to get home. Apparently, the whole area of Chapultepec was a forest, and used to have a lake underneath over 100 years ago! Que loco! There are palm trees and every other kind of tree here. Even the unkempt or incomplete buildings are overgrown with some sort of plant reaching to get sunshine. The colors are vibrant, and adds to the vivaciousness of the city and its people.  

En el bosque/forest

En el bosque/forest

gloriaaaa

gloriaaaa

being a freak, all by myself hahahah

being a freak, all by myself hahahah

it's so lush and green here!! No drought about it.

it's so lush and green here!! No drought about it.

they thought I just wanted a photo of the flowers....cuties.

they thought I just wanted a photo of the flowers....cuties.

Hostel-nightlife damage I missed out on.

Hostel-nightlife damage I missed out on.

Unfortunately my hostel is stuck on the early 2000s jams that include Evanescence, 50 Cent, and Panic! at the Disco. hehe. The cafe played David Gray, Red Hot Chili Peppers, and the Jackson 5. I was hoping for more Spanish music…maybe I need to hop off my tourist train ;) Going dancing tonight! Turns out my hostel moonlights as a disco, which forced me to wear earplugs, dope up on melatonin, and cover my face in pillows to sleep…and now it’s Friday! Cheers to the weekend!!